Memories
of Libya
1956 to 1959
Contributed
by Trevor STUBBERFIELD 52A
Libyan Scenes Part 2
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Tripoli City was in two parts, the old original
section was known as Oea, settled by the
Phoenicians in 500 BC. The modern area architecture was heavily influenced
by the Italian Occupiers when they arrived. The name Tripoli
came from the Tripoli in the Lebanon
which was where the first settlers arrived from. One noticeable feature in
my time there was the cleanliness of the place, despite the horses and
donkeys that were everywhere. An army of street cleaners kept the place
spotless. Once again the photos are interspersed with some of my own black
and white ones. I have many colour slides in Ektachrome
and one day I hope to copy them for use on a web site.
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This is a general view of the modern city
and features the palace of the then King Idris, viewed from the East. Our
first private hiring was on the Sciara 24th
December, some few hundred yards outside the palace walls. The entrance to
the palace grounds is on the circular driveway to the right.
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A view of a typically restful square in
the city. The horse-drawn gharries were a cheap and pleasant way of getting
around the area with the motor taxis used for travel outside of the city
bounds. The army also ran a fleet of buses under the Tripoli Army Bus
Service and they were supplied by the Nuffield Foundation. Towards the end
of my stay we also had a few Ford Fairlanes as
taxis, not a popular move with the local taxi drivers.
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This is a modern photo of what was the
Italian built Roman Catholic Cathedral in my time. Close examination of it
shows that it is now the Central Mosque with the crescent moon atop the
spires.
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A view of the Cathedral taken from the
roof of our private hiring quarters. It certainly dominated the skyline.
From our roof we looked down into one of the main streets which were used
for state visits and processions. Several times we had armed Libyan police
or the military traipsing through our flat to set up watch on the roof. As
we watched it would be the closest we would ever get to King Saud of Saudi Arabia, or our Suez tormentor, President Nasser and a
few more notables.
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This area in front of the cathedral was
the setting for some of the final scenes in the film Ice Cold In Alex. As the Bedford 15cwt truck with the arrested
German spy on board pulled away from the café it circled the round-about.
The scene is famous for the inclusion of a Land Rover parked where the cars
are, a vehicle certainly not relevant to a World War 2 film. We had a world
premiere of the film laid on for the troops and howls of derision met the
sighting. As the Bedford moved on, the squaddies with tears in their eyes
missed the next howler which was a parked Morris Minor along with a
Chevrolet Bel Air saloon car.
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Once again a location for the final
scenes in Ice Cold In Alex. In
the building to the left was the café where the first ice cold lager was
sunk by the crew of the K2 ambulance
before the German was arrested. We often went in there for a long glass of
squash made from locally grown fresh lemons, brimmed with crushed ice.
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Viewed from our roof, this was a
procession of the local Apprentice School.
At one time during the Italian occupation the road was the Via Lombardia. It
was renamed the ‘24th December Street’ to mark the Libyan Independence Day
of 1951. Right in the middle of the
city it was a convenient and very interesting place for us to live.
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A fairly modern photo of Tripoli Castle with the entrance through the
arch to the old city. It stands on the harbour front and was the Tripoli Museum, a fascinating place to
wander around. The dockside cranes in the background were not there during
my time.
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A few photos taken
inside Tripoli Castle along with the entrance ticket and my wife.
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One of the luxury hotels in Tripoli. I
have no notes on this one but think it may have been the Hotel Miramar.
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The Uaddan
Hotel and Casino, Tripoli. Uaddan was the local
name of the large native desert goats, otherwise known as Barbary Sheep which
have been hunted, almost to the point of extinction in North Africa.
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This was the top section of another
luxury hotel, the Albergo Del Mehari.
It stood atop the promenade but, as seen in the next photograph, the lower
floors opened up onto the harbour frontage. The cars are almost a history
lesson of the models available during the mid to late fifties.
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In stark contrast to the luxury of the
harbour front hotels, this is our second Tripoli home, a WD Hiring. Our flat was
in the bottom right hand quarter of the block, No.1 Old Miaet
Block, Sciara Zavia.
The exterior hid a quite luxurious interior with marble floors and wall
tiles throughout. We also had a tiled courtyard with a large fountain in
the middle. Opposite, behind the high wall, was a girl’s school. They
turned up in their all-enveloping robes and disappeared inside unseen. From
our roof top we looked into the grounds where we saw them in ordinary
western style dress. On one occasion there was a city riot to protest
against the French using the Sahara as a
rocket test range. Over in the girl’s school, all the top storey windows
were open and the girls were throwing out everything they could move, which
included all the chairs and desks from the classrooms. The police turned up
but were hamstrung, they couldn’t enter the school grounds as it was
females only. So once again we had police on our roof, observing but doing
nothing. At the end of the day the girls exited quietly, covered once again
from head to toe. One strange thing about the various riots was, that no
matter what or who the riot was about, it was always the Stars and Stripes
flag that got burnt.
N.B. I received an e-mail
from Alan Ward of Sydney,
Australia, regarding the information above.
He attached some later photos of Old Miaet
Block and the riots at the girls’ school which brought back a few
memories. Alan’s contribution is
contained in a supplementary page which can be accessed from HERE.
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The railway didn’t quite run through the
middle of the house, but it got very close. To reach our own residence we
had to cross the tracks which crossed the Sciara Zavia, but at least we had plenty of time to see this
one coming. The railway network actually covered quite a large area, even
running up into the highlands. I don’t think they had a turntable as the
driver is up the front in this photo.
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Tripoli Station with a
Fiat express train
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There are several
pages of colour slides of Tripoli which are now available for viewing
from HERE.
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Published:
1st February 2008.
Latest
Update: 15th April 2018.
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Libyan Scenes
Continued
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