Memories of Libya 1956 to 1959

Contributed by Trevor STUBBERFIELD 52A

Libyan Scenes

It wouldn’t stretch the imagination too far to picture Beau Geste, Captain Gallant or the great Lawrence, riding out from this fort on a new adventure. The location isn’t identified but I believe it to stand alongside the road across the Azizia plain between Tripoli and Azizia town. It would have been used by many of the military units stationed in Libya but at this time it was in the hands of the Libyan Army.

A picturesque view of Tigrinna, located in the North West of Libya, about 45 miles South of Tripoli. Agriculture was the mainstay in this area and although the soil seemed impoverished, the quality of produce was very good as we knew from our purchases in the markets of Tripoli. However the area had a dark past. During the occupation by the Italians 1911 to 1943, the Libyan Jews became the target of Fascists. Forced labour camps were set up in the region in 1942 and many were interned and suffered inhumane treatment. Deportations were ordered and many finished up in the Belsen concentration camp in Germany. There were several pogroms instituted by the Moslem population who hated the Jews.

Suk el Giuma, a suburb of Tripoli City. A typical scene of a local market where we would shop for our fruit and vegetables. The quality was surprisingly good and as it was grown locally, very fresh. Because it was a market for the townsfolk, who were not the richest of people, the prices charged were extremely reasonable.

This tranquil scene is in the oasis town of Ghadames. In a very long history the town was rebuilt many times, in different locations, but always around the water. The last version was cleverly built to reduce the effect of the high temperatures in the area. In 1986 the inhabitants were moved out to a new village with the old town designated a World Heritage Town. However, in the height of summer the villagers still move back to the old town to keep cool. The town stands at the junction of the Libyan, Tunisian and Algerian borders and has always had a strategic value. It was a meeting point for the caravans that plied their trade along the four main routes throughout Africa. Improvements in transport diminished its value and it came to rely on breeding camels and agriculture. That changed with the discovery of an oil field in the area which stretched underground into Algeria.

No.1 A Tuareg tribesman

On any visit to Ghadames you would be sure to see members of the Tuareg tribe, mistakenly dubbed men in black veils. Their dress evolved to cope with the desert conditions they met as they led their caravans across the lands. Several layers of long, soft cotton, flowing robes in varying shades of blue. The head dress that formed the veil was usually a dark blue, not black. The veil was worn by the men from the age of twenty five and was rumoured never to be removed. When you did see a face or skin uncovered it had taken on the colour of the robes which were dyed with a vegetable dye and ran when mixed with perspiration. The women only wore a headscarf to cover the hair. The Tuareg looked quite menacing and you have to remember that because of the time and distance involved in their caravan journeys, apart from the essential salt they also carried valuable cargo in the form of ivory, gold, silver and precious stones to make them profitable,. Because of this they were targets for desert brigands and were prepared to defend their property. Everything needed for their treks went with them, food for the humans and some fodder for the animals, the goats being the food for the trekkers. Also some accommodation in the form of tents which weren’t furnished Hollywood style with armchairs and couches.

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No.2 High ground offered protection to towns and villages during turbulent times. The rugged terrain that often surrounded the high ground gave additional protection because of the difficulty in crossing it.

No.3 Perhaps a more traditional view of the desert.

One of the staple foods was the ubiquitous date which was also exported. A very simple sling device enabled the picker to walk up the tree and sit at the top to pick the fruit. Unlike the Tunisian and Algerian exports, which were packed on the stalk in boxes with clear lids, the Libyan date generally was pitted and then compressed into a block which made it simple to break off just the right amount when using them in cooking. It also made them easy to carry as a block in your kit to eat, as and when you got a bit peckish. The taste was not so sickly sweet like those from the neighbouring countries.

A typical example of the many tortuous passes that led up into the areas of high ground. This led to the Gebel Nefusa which even today is a bit of a mystery region. It was an extinct volcanic area and many of the inhabitants were troglodytes, living underground or in caves cut into the cliff walls. The people were almost a taboo subject to successive rulers and so became almost a country within a country. In modern times its value lies in the soaring chalk cliffs which sweep down to the Mediterranean sea and are a source of cement for the vast construction projects which are being undertaken.

The Gebel Hotel stood on high ground at the top of the Garian Pass. Garian was famous for the Garian Lady which was a large wall mural of a reclining naked lady, posed to replicate the coastline of North Africa, with all the various place names added in the correct spots. It was painted by Clifford Saber, an American volunteer ambulance driver who was serving with the 8^th Army. I personally didn’t get to see the painting and the sorry story is explained with the next photos.

A group of us set out from Tripoli to visit Garian and see the Garian Lady. The approach to Garian was via the Garian Pass, a steep and twisty road, virtually up the side of a mountain. This had been reached after driving across the Azizia Plain, known for the high temperatures found there. We were climbing steadily when one of the passengers thought that he would like to take some photos of the pass, so I pulled over and parked where you see the car, with my wife alongside it. What a mistake. Returning to the car it steadfastly refused to start. A dreaded fuel vapour lock. We waited quite a while but the problem was still there so we decided to return to base. With no engine running and no brake assistance I backed the car down the pass to a spot where we could safely turn around. Our shame was compounded by the appearance of an old bus storming up the hill, all seats taken and with a couple of passengers on the roof holding on to their goats. I took the hand signals from the passengers to mean we only had two miles to go to the bottom of the pass. After a long time we finally got mobile and limped all the way back to Tripoli. For many years my wife has dined out on the tale of how, with three of the army’s finest vehicle mechanics in the car, we never got to the top of the hill. I suppose it was a bit like the Grand Old Duke of York, we were neither up nor down. Fifty years on and I still can’t live it down.

Not very good but this is the only photo of the Garian Lady that I have been able to find on the internet. It was housed in one of a group of old ramshackle buildings and there were more murals in amongst the others. Given the current religious situation in Libya I wonder whether or not the painting has survived. Please Note Additional photos of the Garian Lady and a link to the web site of the artist can be accessed from HERE.

No.4 In an alcoholic free country tea played a great part, both as a refreshment and a gesture of hospitality. Known as Shahee, we always pronounced it as Shy. Similar to most North African countries but brewed to a meticulous Libyan recipe and ceremony with just minor regional changes. This brewer is relatively well equipped. Mostly the kit would be a small stove, a blue enamel teapot and a can along with some small glasses. Sometimes it would be an additional teapot instead of the can. A mixture of teas were used, one of them called Red Tea which gave the red colour to the brew. Very simply tea leaves were added to boiling water. After a short while to infuse the tea was tipped into the can or second teapot. It was then poured back into the original pot and boiled again, strengthening the flavour and consistency. Some pourings would also induce a foam which would sit on top of the liquid. This would happen several times until the brewer was satisfied with the look, consistency and taste. It was also brewed with a goodly amount of sugar in the concoction. When deemed satisfactory the first glasses were offered to guests or senior members of the party. If the Gods had Nectar, then this was Libyan Nectar. No other words describe the taste. The second glass was lighter and in line with most North African countries it would be flavoured with mint. The third glass was a light brew and could be sprinkled with chopped or ground almond or pistachio nuts. That is a very simple guide to what was a very complex brewing operation.

The military version of the Shahee or Shy brewing ceremony was somewhat different to the local custom. These photos illustrate a tried and trusted method of brewing up, army style. First find a convenient spot in the desert to pull off the road. There were plenty to choose from.

Next dig a hole, large and deep enough to accommodate the bottom half of a hard tack biscuit tin. Our tins were marked WD↑1945 so the biscuits were only eleven years old, just maturing nicely. Fill the tin with sand and add copious amounts of petrol. Stand well clear and toss in a lighted match. Perhaps not quite the classic Benghazi Burner but still very effective. The bucket was the stand-in for a teapot whilst mugs, enamel, brown, replaced the glasses.

Add sufficient handfuls of tea to form a brown liquid and bring to the boil. Add condensed, evaporated or powdered milk to lighten the shade of mud, some sugar and presto, mugs of char for the asking.

There was a shortage of flushing toilets and comfort stations in the desert and thus it became a Dig It Yourself operation as and when the need occurred. On short stops it was out with the pick-axe, shovels and red marker peg, and as held by myself on the right, a clump of camel scrub to hide behind to preserve the modesty.

These lads are actually Z Reservists, called up for the Suez operation. Officially we were on a shakedown training exercise to make sure everything was working, but In reality we were on our way east to join in the shindig. We came to a shuddering halt when the Libyan Government invoked a clause in a TREATY which prevented our troops being used to attack a neighbouring Arab country. The desert was a very valuable training ground which we didn’t want to lose so basically it meant that all the reinforcements and equipment that had been gathered in Libya were neutralised. We headed back to Tripoli with our tails between our legs. Back in base for a while I then found myself heading due West with a couple of companions to see what was going on down that way. It was a long time afterwards that I put the words Suez Canal Blocked, Oil, Natural Gas and Algeria together and then two and two made six.

Additional information 1st November 2012.

In 1958, whilst I was still in Libya, the ‘Joint Mobility, Rapid Deployment, Exercise Quickstep’ was mounted. I recently came across a contemporary ‘Flight Magazine’ appraisal of the exercise. Apart from the value of the exercise, it was during a period when the Army Air Corps had just been formed, and aircraft maintenance duties were being transferred from the R.A.F. to R.E.M.E. I thought it might be of interest to those of our readers who made the switch to the A.A.C. around that time. My personal link to the story is that I paid a number of visits to the involved ‘8 Independent Recce. Flight’, based at Idris Airfield, from my unit, which was responsible for transport in the Tripolitania District.

The quality of the original pdf. file was not very good and despite improving the readability a little, it is still not up to our usual quality of reproduction. However, it does makes interesting reading.

The file can be accessed from this link

The C.O. of ‘8 Independent Recce. Flight’, mentioned in the information above, went on to hold the post of Adjutant at the Arborfield Army Apprentices College from 1967 to 1973. His name was………

Major Russell Henry Matthews, M.C. Royal Artillery.

First Published: 1^st February 2008.

Latest Update: 15th September 2014.

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Libyan Scenes continued.